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Scale model fans...questions and showcase of work
- Thread starter NYCJetCharter
- Start date
Excellent stuff. One thing I was going to note. I noticed red stripes on the propulsion section of the missiles. Those would actually be brown. Just something for future reference. Also, you have an extra stripe on there that I'm not sure would be on it. The black one aft of the red stripe. Also noticed on the 103 bird that you have a yellow w/ a blue stripe. You would never see that. It would either be all blue stripes, or yellow w/ a brown. Blue stripes indicate inert ordnance, ie. no bang. Great models though, wish I had the patience and skill to do that, not to mention the time.
Note, those stripes are simply used to identify the class of ordnance. Yellow being class one, think big bang. While the brown is a class three, thing propulsion.
Note, those stripes are simply used to identify the class of ordnance. Yellow being class one, think big bang. While the brown is a class three, thing propulsion.
Citation3
Well-Known Member
Yes...I have learned...
Thank you for all the wealth of information. The bands have always been confusing to me. The 103 and 106 birds I copied form other models and were my first two. I knew they were most likely inaccurate. The 213 jet I had pictures sent from the boat. I used a yellow and black band. The pictures were not the best. By what you are saying it looks like it should be yellow and brown.
Google images can be your best friend or worst enemy.
Thanks again. I have time to correct this for him before he gets back.
Thank you for all the wealth of information. The bands have always been confusing to me. The 103 and 106 birds I copied form other models and were my first two. I knew they were most likely inaccurate. The 213 jet I had pictures sent from the boat. I used a yellow and black band. The pictures were not the best. By what you are saying it looks like it should be yellow and brown.
Google images can be your best friend or worst enemy.
Thanks again. I have time to correct this for him before he gets back.
Rhino only holds 412 rounds. :icon_smil
Excellent stuff. One thing I was going to note. I noticed red stripes on the propulsion section of the missiles. Those would actually be brown. Just something for future reference. Also, you have an extra stripe on there that I'm not sure would be on it. The black one aft of the red stripe. Also noticed on the 103 bird that you have a yellow w/ a blue stripe. You would never see that. It would either be all blue stripes, or yellow w/ a brown. Blue stripes indicate inert ordnance, ie. no bang. Great models though, wish I had the patience and skill to do that, not to mention the time.
Note, those stripes are simply used to identify the class of ordnance. Yellow being class one, think big bang. While the brown is a class three, thing propulsion.
Concur. Here's what training version of AIM-9X looks like with blue stripes
HJ Photos
I suspect anyone receiving a model would want the real deal with brown and yellow stripes
US Navy
Note: AIM-9X uses same rocket motor (Mk36), fuse and warhead as the AIM-9M so stripes are similar
US Navy
However, training versions are traditionally called blue tubes
HJ Photo
navyao
Registered User
Citation3,
You couldn't have posted this at a better time. I just finished a 1/48 scale A-6E and now I'm starting a 1/48 scale Rhino from VFA-211.
Your Rhino's look great! What aftermarket cockpit did you use? Is the kit itself the Hasegawa kit or a different kit? What did you use to raise the panel lines? The only recommendation I would make is that the displays on the insturment panels are only green when they are powered up. Gloss black would be better or some flat black and a little Future wax. I hope my Rhino turns out just as good.
I had the same question about the vents between the vertical stabs. I want my Rhino to be a Lot 30 a/c. The heat blankets or the things you thought looked like walkways are no longer on the 30's. Problem is, I can't find squat out there as far as pics go to see if I can improvise on the Hasegawa kit. Maybe a certain former Tomcat RIO who lives in the Oceana traffic pattern could talk one of those nice plane captains into snapping a pic or two for this former AO? (hint-hint).
Here's my Intruder from VA-196. The Intruder was a weapons platform back in the day. You'd think I would've loaded her up being an AO but I decided to mount MK-76 practice bombs instead...I scratchbuilt the 76's.
You couldn't have posted this at a better time. I just finished a 1/48 scale A-6E and now I'm starting a 1/48 scale Rhino from VFA-211.
Your Rhino's look great! What aftermarket cockpit did you use? Is the kit itself the Hasegawa kit or a different kit? What did you use to raise the panel lines? The only recommendation I would make is that the displays on the insturment panels are only green when they are powered up. Gloss black would be better or some flat black and a little Future wax. I hope my Rhino turns out just as good.
I had the same question about the vents between the vertical stabs. I want my Rhino to be a Lot 30 a/c. The heat blankets or the things you thought looked like walkways are no longer on the 30's. Problem is, I can't find squat out there as far as pics go to see if I can improvise on the Hasegawa kit. Maybe a certain former Tomcat RIO who lives in the Oceana traffic pattern could talk one of those nice plane captains into snapping a pic or two for this former AO? (hint-hint).
Here's my Intruder from VA-196. The Intruder was a weapons platform back in the day. You'd think I would've loaded her up being an AO but I decided to mount MK-76 practice bombs instead...I scratchbuilt the 76's.
Awesome Instruder....really like the fake intake covers. I'm far from the best, but my technique for panel lines was to just scribe them prior to painting with either a nail head or one of those little scriber thingys modelmaster makes. I can't imagine RAISING them. The unfortunate fact of the matter is some Revell model kits and other older or cheaper ones will have the panel lines raised on the mold, rather than slightly recessed. In that case, I consider myself f'd and don't worry about them. Other more anal people would sand them down and actually scribe them in themselves using a ruler and noting where the lines orginally were. I'm eager to hear citations method, his are exceptionally nice.
Citation3
Well-Known Member
Now that is a stunning A-6...
Well, the kits that came out the best IMO are the 103 & 213 birds. They are both the F/A-18F Revell kit. I didn't use any aftermarket accessories except the decals. The 106 bird is the high dollar Hasegawa kit. Unless you are looking for a kit with flaps the can be dropped the Revell is a much nicer kit for the money. The Revell kit has a great cockpit and ejection seats. The Has kit is fairly bland. Also, the Revell has great landing gear and armarment. I thinkt think the drop tanks are much more accurate vs. the Has kit. I don't think you can go wrong with the $25 Revell kit. A nice paint job, aftermarket decals, and some weathering really do it justice.
The Revell as well as the Has kit has recessed panel lines. I only rescribed panel lines where I sanded. I used the ProModeller Dark wash to bring out the lines. Just brush it on and let sit 20 minutes and wipe of with a soft cloth until you take off the right amount to give you the desired look.
Thanks for the gouge on the cockpit displays. I have seen them done so many ways. Mostly I see green, in models, the actuall A/C appears more black. I did the 103 bird with black and I do think it is a better look.
Is the flightdeck display a kit or did you scratch build it? I'm looking for something similar for my 213 before I give it to my friend.
Well, the kits that came out the best IMO are the 103 & 213 birds. They are both the F/A-18F Revell kit. I didn't use any aftermarket accessories except the decals. The 106 bird is the high dollar Hasegawa kit. Unless you are looking for a kit with flaps the can be dropped the Revell is a much nicer kit for the money. The Revell kit has a great cockpit and ejection seats. The Has kit is fairly bland. Also, the Revell has great landing gear and armarment. I thinkt think the drop tanks are much more accurate vs. the Has kit. I don't think you can go wrong with the $25 Revell kit. A nice paint job, aftermarket decals, and some weathering really do it justice.
The Revell as well as the Has kit has recessed panel lines. I only rescribed panel lines where I sanded. I used the ProModeller Dark wash to bring out the lines. Just brush it on and let sit 20 minutes and wipe of with a soft cloth until you take off the right amount to give you the desired look.
Thanks for the gouge on the cockpit displays. I have seen them done so many ways. Mostly I see green, in models, the actuall A/C appears more black. I did the 103 bird with black and I do think it is a better look.
Is the flightdeck display a kit or did you scratch build it? I'm looking for something similar for my 213 before I give it to my friend.
mtsupilot09
"We lookin fo you. We gon find you!"
Both you guys...stellar job. I've seen much worse in the Naval Aviation Museum...not kidding. The ATD is impressive. Do either of you have a Tomcat? My dad would be interested...PM me if you do.