Corvette ZR1

[Renegade One]

2005 SRT-10 QC (Viper V-10 8.3L) with a STS turbo and meth injection. I blew a piston and now it is in the last 2 weeks of rebuild with forged pistons. I will be putting about 730 ft lb's of TRQ at 9 psi to the ground without the meth and 600 RWHP. The vette will have a better power to weight ratio but you got to be able to get the power to the ground.

Me, I'm tachin' around town in a nearly "cherry" 2003 Plymouth Voyager LX, running a 6-cyl 3.3 liter 201 FI(3) and rolling on a matched set of Hankook "Mileage Plus" P215/70R15 tires that I got on sale Pep Boys. Rear bench seat removed to bias the weight distribution forward. You're right...it is ALL about getting power to the ground!

 

[xj220]

Me, I'm tachin' around town in a nearly "cherry" 2003 Plymouth Voyager LX, running a 6-cyl 3.3 liter 201 FI(3) and rolling on a matched set of Hankook "Mileage Plus" P215/70R15 tires that I got on sale Pep Boys. Rear bench seat removed to bias the weight distribution forward. You're right...it is ALL about getting power to the ground!

Hey, you'd be amazed at what a minivan can do. Don't count them out:
http://www.turbovan.net/van.html

 

[RyanF]

The question lies in this - my Dad says I'm better off to get a cheaper new car because I won't want to be spending all my time with maintenance on a classic. Advice?

He's right. An old car is an old car, so it will break down at some point which can really be crappy if you have somewhere to be and/or live in an apartment complex. Personally, I'd get a sporty DD/toaster car, then get a classic car once I had enough money and a garage to work on it.

 

[Alpha_Echo_606]

He's right. An old car is an old car, so it will break down at some point which can really be crappy if you have somewhere to be and/or live in an apartment complex. Personally, I'd get a sporty DD/toaster car, then get a classic car once I had enough money and a garage to work on it.

Yeah, new cars break too! The only difference is the warranty, I've seen people void the warranty and have their new car break. Talk about pain, still making payments to buy the car and now financing a repair too!

 

[navywareagle]

2005 SRT-10 QC (Viper V-10 8.3L) with a STS turbo and meth injection. I blew a piston and now it is in the last 2 weeks of rebuild with forged pistons. I will be putting about 730 ft lb's of TRQ at 9 psi to the ground without the meth and 600 RWHP. The vette will have a better power to weight ratio but you got to be able to get the power to the ground.

Sweet car. I bet you have traction issues. Have you done anything to the drive train? or does the stock stuff handle that tq ok?

 

[RyanF]

Yeah, new cars break too! The only difference is the warranty, I've seen people void the warranty and have their new car break. Talk about pain, still making payments to buy the car and now financing a repair too!

So I guess the moral of the story is don't mod your car before the warranty expires and don't finance a depreciating asset?

Although I have to admit what would really be ironic is if mod that voided the warranty caused the car to break down

 

[Flying Low]

Sweet car. I bet you have traction issues. Have you done anything to the drive train? or does the stock stuff handle that tq ok?

The tranny can handle about 700 HP. They used diesel transmissions for the SRT-10's. I'm having a shift kit put on and a larger transmission pan to help with the cooling as heat is the biggest killer (besides TRQ). The best 60's I have been able to cut is 1.8 on the stock tires. Need to put on some slicks if I want to cut any better but the rotors are to big for a descent size slick.

 

[navywareagle]

The best 60's I have been able to cut is 1.8 on the stock tires. Need to put on some slicks if I want to cut any better but the rotors are to big for a descent size slick.

I have similar issues. I don't have quite as much tq as you (343 wtq on my vette) but traction on the launch is hard to control, and using a slick or drag radial on a 17 or 18in wheel (for rotor clearance) just isn't worth it. A buddy of mine has an 03 ZO6 with 598 whp, 632 wtq and he has traction issues with his drag radials until he gets into 3rd.

 

[bunk22]

So I guess the moral of the story is don't mod your car before the warranty expires and don't finance a depreciating asset?

Although I have to admit what would really be ironic is if mod that voided the warranty caused the car to break down

By the end of the first week when I bought my C6, it was modded...just a cat-back. I still had warranty work done for minor things with the car modded. The local Chevy dealership had no problem doing it. Granted, a cracked headlight had nothing to do with the mods I had. Now when my valvespring broke, they weren't going to do that for free since that was already modified.

I have similar issues. I don't have quite as much tq as you (343 wtq on my vette) but traction on the launch is hard to control, and using a slick or drag radial on a 17 or 18in wheel (for rotor clearance) just isn't worth it. A buddy of mine has an 03 ZO6 with 598 whp, 632 wtq and he has traction issues with his drag radials until he gets into 3rd.

My C6 makes 410rwhp/407rwtq SAE and I too have traction issues. I have to heat my DR's real good at the track to get them to stick. A friend just dynoed 806rwhp with his highly modified C5Z....he has no traction at all if he steps on the gas with any sort of gusto. That power is useless for the street. He has a built 427 with a Procharger F1 up front.

 

[MIDNJAC]

So I guess the moral of the story is don't mod your car before the warranty expires and don't finance a depreciating asset?

Although I have to admit what would really be ironic is if mod that voided the warranty caused the car to break down

FWIW it's actually a lot harder than you would think to void your warranty w/ mods. Not to mention that unless the dealership can provide proof that said mod contributed to the equipment failure, they can't void it (like if you have an aftermarket exhaust they can't refuse to fix your climate control system that is broken, etc). All cars are depreciating assets to some extent....you just have to go into knowing you are paying money to enjoy yourself (regardless of whether you choose to modify it). I've modded my car plenty before warranty was up, and have never had any problems because of it.

 

[MIDNJAC]

2005 SRT-10 QC (Viper V-10 8.3L) with a STS turbo and meth injection. I blew a piston and now it is in the last 2 weeks of rebuild with forged pistons. I will be putting about 730 ft lb's of TRQ at 9 psi to the ground without the meth and 600 RWHP. The vette will have a better power to weight ratio but you got to be able to get the power to the ground.

Out of curiousity how much does a rebuild for one of those run you (if you don't mind me asking)? Who made your pistons?

 

[Flying Low]

Out of curiousity how much does a rebuild for one of those run you (if you don't mind me asking)? Who made your pistons?

KRC performance is doing my rebuild. Marty (the owner) is doing Shaq's turbo charger and the king of UAE's turbo challenger. The pistons are Ross and run about $1200 for all 10. The build itself is around $4500. Of course mine cost more due to problems. The turbo got damaged when the piston let go and the block had to be bored out and a cam shaft bearing added. We had to get the guys who do the viper engines for offshore racing boats to do that part. Here is a pic of the engine. This is the left side 1,3,5,7,9 (can't see).

 

[MasterBates]

That piston looks unhappy

 

[MIDNJAC]

Awesome....I really need to get into domestics. F**k rebuilding alusil blocks, that is just a waste of time (and apparently all of my money when I was a senior middie). Did you drop the compression or are you just compensating w/ intercooler/aftercooler and tune? You are pulling good boost it sounds.....

 

[Flying Low]

Awesome....I really need to get into domestics. F**k rebuilding alusil blocks, that is just a waste of time (and apparently all of my money when I was a senior middie). Did you drop the compression or are you just compensating w/ intercooler/aftercooler and tune? You are pulling good boost it sounds.....

Didn't change the compression and no cooler. Inlet temps don't get real high due to the location of the turbo. It's the STS rear mounted system. The turbo is by the back right tire. I'm using meth instead of an intercooler more as a safety feature rather than for power.