Dialing it in

[CAMike]

Thanks for the additional data. You really need to get some Federal Gold Medal Match 168 and 175 weights and see the differences. If your gun isn't convinced, then try all kinds of factory manufactured stuff or step up to the plate and begin hand loading. When you're active duty it's a pain moving the equipment from one duty station to the next but if you consistently get well under an inch @ 100 yds, the moving hassle factor becomes more palatable.

If you are near NAS LeMoore -PM me. I'm a member at Coalinga where you can try your skills at up to a 1000 yds. Fun times!

 

[Bevo16]

Guys, thanks for all the replies. Here's the more detailed info from day one:

Ammo - Czech .308, 165g I think, it was on sale and I realize now why it was on sale - very dirty stuff and I'm not sure it was very accurate. I completely immobilized the rifle on the Lead Sled.

This is your problem, and CA Mike gave you the answer.

I went through the exact same thing with my M1A about a year and a half ago. On Rocketman's reccomendation, I picked up 1000 rounds of surplus ammo (150 gr) at a great price. It is good ammo for plinking, but at 100 yards it does not do any better than 4 inch groups. When I started to figure out that the problem might be the cheap ammo, I got some 150 gr hunting ammo. The groups came down to about 3 inches with those rounds.

Then I got a few boxes of 168gr Federal Gold Medal Match, and started printing 5 shot groups at .65 inches and 10 shot groups that you can cover with a quarter.

Keep in mind that the accuracy rifle manufactures use to advertize is achieved by professional shooters using match grade or handloaded ammo.

Get a box of FGMM and then come back and thank us.

 

[FlyinRock]

Most match ammo is of the 165gr variety which should say something in .30cal. If you are going hunting, the 165 will do the job and if you're going after big animals like moose or big bears, (or an afrikan hunt) the heavier bullets are apropos but the range will generally be under 100 meters. In any event, shooting paper targets will tell you something, but if you are going hunting, one shot stops and kills are the epitome of both the rifle/ammo/shooter combination. Shot placement is the whole aim (no pun intended <ggg>)
The cost of a hunt will easily outweigh the cost of high quality ammo and shooting your rifle to get the optimum performance. If you are looking for match accuracy and performance, match shooters can help you get dialed in. In fact, with very few exceptions, the best of the match shooters are quick to help you with any problems with equipment or techniques. It delighted me when I coached a shooter to outshoot me. It was a win win for me and was a source of pride for both.
Semper Fi
Rocky

 

[Pugs]

This is your problem, and CA Mike gave you the answer.

Exactly - looking forward to what coreloks do but don't be afraid to give some other factory ammo a try and let us know.

 

[A7Dave]

Guys, thanks for all the replies. Here's the more detailed info from day one:

Ammo - Czech .308, 165g I think, it was on sale and I realize now why it was on sale - very dirty stuff and I'm not sure it was very accurate. I completely immobilized the rifle on the Lead Sled.

Barrel - 22". Twist - 1:10"

Solvent - Barnes CR-10.

I broke in the barrel with about 35rnds, cleaning every 2-4 shots, it has a nice mirror finish and is pretty darn clean. I never shot a round that didn't result in a fairly dirty swab coming out, but I think this was due to how dirty the ammo was.

I bought some Remington Core Lokt 180g to try on my next outing. I'll buy something else as well. I checked all the nuts and bolts to ensure they were tight, and all appeared to be in order.

I dunno if I'll get out this next weekend (going fishing) but I will report back with results.

Appreciate the help!

Prostop,

First, good on you for the break-in. Since it isn't a custom barrel, it will likely not affect your grouping, however, what it does do is polish the throat and the barrel. Your gun will clean better.

As everyone else has said, the Czech ammo is likely the cause. Almost any US factory ammo will shoot way better.

As for cleaning, I don't know how much shooting experience you have, but here is my suggestion: NEVER use a stainless brush. Buy a nylon bore brush if you can over a bronze brush (the nylon won't wear out from the solvent). Start your cleaning routine using one of the non-toxic solvents (Hoppes, etc). Save the copper cleaner for the final couple of passes. The new non-toxics work great and save a lot of time.

Always clean from the chamber end and protect the muzzle. (speaking of that, get a "chamber swab" and keep the chamber clean)

Ruger make a great gun. I'm sure with good ammo and good technique your gun will shoot MOA no problem.