Dialing it in

[PropStop]

So I took my shiny new Ruger Hawkeye All-weatherout yesterday to get her dialed in for the hunting seasons. The rifle is brand new and I mounted a Leopold scope on it (not top of the line, but not a bad one by any measure). I sighted it in at 25yds (which is how far it had been bore sighted to at the gun shop when they mounted the scope) and had zero problem keeping very tight groups after just a few shots. I only had to adjust windage, elevation was perfect. I was using a Lead Sled bench rest, effectively taking me out of the picture.

Anyhow, when I got out to 100yds my accuracy dropped way off. Mind you I was doing a shoot-shoot-clean routine (or something close to that) and trying to let the barrel cool off between shots. I eventually got down to a reliable 4x4" grouping, but still not the pinpoint accuracy I was hoping for at 100yds.

Anybody have any advice as to how I can dial it in more? I tried everything I could think of - which wasn't a lot. I used the Lead Sled for all of my shots, but still nothing as tight as I expected. Is this all I can expect from an out of the box rifle? Surely it's good enough for taking a hunting shot on a moose at <100yds (pretty standard up here) - but, I want to do better and ensure that I get a good killing shot every time.

thanks!

 

[A4sForever]

Ammo?? Bullet weight?? Barrel twist?? All the usual suspects ... ???

Counterpoint: I've got an 'original' 1913 '03-Springfield (Rock Island) that shoots 2" groups @ 100 yards iron sight from a sandbag rest w/ 150 gr. USGI fodder 'out of the box' , so to speak ... and while I'm not familiar w/ your stick, I'd think it should be capable of better accuracy than 4" out of the 'box' ... ???

 

[HackerF15E]

FWIW, people are usually significantly less accurate than their firearms are.

 

[Pugs]

You're right to expect better that 4" at 100 yards. It's minute of critter but it should be better.

I'm not a believer in barrel break in and in fact, I rarely clean a bore more than one pass with some Hoppes and a patch unless I see a degradation in accuracy. Of course, even that could be just because i love the smell of Hoppes. It smells like happiness :tongue2_1

The place to start is screws. Go back and make sure they're all tight and make sure you locktite the scope bases. But don't forget to torque the screws holding the action in. I don't have a M77 but for Winchesters I use 25 inch lbs of torque. You can get a torque wrench for that from Brownells. Make sure that action is as far back and down tight as you can.

As far as ammo, I can't recall if you're a handloader or not and there's a ton of variety if you are. If not buy a variety of different ammo and give it a try. They will vary a lot and most rifles seem to have a distinct preference. Between tightening the screws and testing some other ammo you're likely going to solve. After that things get harder. bedding, crowns, new barrels etc.

 

[Pugs]

FWIW, people are usually significantly less accurate than their firearms are.

Some people yes. Using a sled takes a lot of the guesswork out but they are hard on rifles and I've seen more than one wooden stocked hard kicking rifle snapped at the wrist by one since there is no give.

 

[coolhandlukesd]

I used Teflon tape to lock the scope bases in on my M1A.

 

[HackerF15E]

Some people yes. Using a sled takes a lot of the guesswork out but they are hard on rifles and I've seen more than one wooden stocked hard kicking rifle snapped at the wrist by one since there is no give.

Totally valid.

My post was simply in response to some shooters who are in an endless tail-chase for "accuracy" in their rifle/pistol when it's really the person doing the aiming and pulling the trigger that is the problem.

 

[CAMike]

Couple of quick questions in addition to A4's inquiry.

1. What is the barrel length?

2. Did you break the barrel in properly?

3. What copper solvent did you use during the break in process and at what round did the patches go blueless?

You can't break in a barrel by cleaning with Hoppes#2. Let us know all the specifics and maybe we can help.

Did you shoot one shot- then clean one for each of the first 5 to 10 rounds fired?

 

[Pugs]

There is no way a 4" group is attributable to any sort of "break in" mistakes. As I said, I'm not a believer in any shoot - clean - shoot break in. Simply shoot them and don't let them get too warm.

 

[Jamin'G]

Pugs' advice is spot on. Every rifle barrel is different. Although I wouldn't expect to necessarily shoot sub-moa out of the box with production ammo (though it is possible), you should certainly be able to achieve better than 4 inch groups. If you don't handload, I would suggest going to a good sporting goods store to buy at least 3 or 4 different types of ammo consisting of different bullet weights (being that these also affect shot to shot precision).

Personally I wouldn't worry about the shoot, clean, shoot routine -- but more power to you if you do. The M77 is a great rifle and should provide years of reliable service once you get it figured out. Good luck!

 

[H60Gunner]

That's a tough one. After you try all the things suggested above and nothing works you may have a lemon. Seriously doubt it, but its a possibility. I have a Browning BLR in .308 that doesn't like factory ammo. It only likes handloads that have a precise OAL. IMO 4" groups at 100yds is unacceptable.

Breaking in a barrel is a huge controversy, some bench rest guys swear by it, I've never done it until I built my AR.... Doesn't mean it's right or wrong. I personally don't see how it can hurt.

 

[Pugs]

Breaking in a barrel is a huge controversy, some bench rest guys swear by it, I've never done it until I built my AR.... Doesn't mean it's right or wrong. I personally don't see how it can hurt.

I will give you that at the competive benchrest level that maybe it has some affect but when you're shooting at that level .01 of an inch makes a difference between winning and losing. My gumsmith (and his wife) are benchrest shooters and the targetsthey shoot are incredible. I shoot metallic silhouette and it's not relevent in my game or my hunting rifles.

 

[FlyinRock]

If all the screws are tight, it could very well be a poor bedding problem. 4" is not very good out of the box but the kind of ammo can also be a culprit. As suggested, try several different combos, mfgs, bullet weights, etc. If you find one that shoots well, try to buy several boxes of the same lot (the lot # is published someplace on the box) as that is also subject to variance between lots.
I've done my own bedding jobs with a number of rifles and it generally tightened up the groups a signifigant amount. Shooting at the master level demanded the utmost in both accuracy and operator.
Semper Fi
Rocky

 

[PropStop]

Guys, thanks for all the replies. Here's the more detailed info from day one:

Ammo - Czech .308, 165g I think, it was on sale and I realize now why it was on sale - very dirty stuff and I'm not sure it was very accurate. I completely immobilized the rifle on the Lead Sled.

Barrel - 22". Twist - 1:10"

Solvent - Barnes CR-10.

I broke in the barrel with about 35rnds, cleaning every 2-4 shots, it has a nice mirror finish and is pretty darn clean. I never shot a round that didn't result in a fairly dirty swab coming out, but I think this was due to how dirty the ammo was.

I bought some Remington Core Lokt 180g to try on my next outing. I'll buy something else as well. I checked all the nuts and bolts to ensure they were tight, and all appeared to be in order.

I dunno if I'll get out this next weekend (going fishing) but I will report back with results.

Appreciate the help!

 

[C420sailor]

I'd be willing to bet that your groups tighten up significantly with some good ammo, especially after you get some more rounds through the tube.