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88 Pathfinder

JSF_Dreamer

Busted Head
Ok, so I need some help before I sledge this thing to hell. I have an 88 Pathfinder V6 4x4. It's not in perfect shape, but I like it. Now, It's just been sitting in my driveway for about 10 months now.

My dad and I rebuilt the motor after the heads cracked. After we did that it ran great. Had no problems. Was fine for a couple weeks. Then, my dad drove it to the store (no problems), went inside, came out, tried to crank it, started up, put it in gear and then found out that it had NO power in gear. Once you put it into gear it bogs down. It almost sounds like it's in it's highest gear and you're trying to drive at 1mph so it cuts off.

I put in a new fuel pump and filter, didn't fix it. I can turn it on and it will idle great. Can rev it with no problems, but the second you put it into drive or reverse it bogs down.

I've got my bike and that's my primary means of transportation, but it's gonna start raining a lot again and it would be nice to have something else so I don't leave my wife and son stranded all day when I have class.

There is one other thing... there is a large canister that has a bunch of vacuum hoses plugged into it. Well, there's SUPPOSED to be a large canister. It deteriorated into rusted dust way back. But it ran with no problems without it. Really don't want to have to find a new one (300 bucks new or you can find a nice rusted one in the junkyard).

PLEASE Please please... if you have any ideas, please let me know.
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BurghGuy

Master your ego, and you own your destiny.
Sounds like a transmission problem. If the engine is idling fine, and you can rev it in neutral with no problems, it's most likely a breakdown with how that power is getting to the wheels, i.e. the transmission.

Assumig it's and automatic (you said "Drive" and not "1st"), does it bog down as soon as you put it in drive, or only after you start moving? If it's the former, check your torque converter, you might get lucky and not need a full rebuild. If it's the later, BOHICA, get ready to shell out some $$$$ and time for a rebuild.

General thought process: it's only when it's in gear that you have a problem, the problem lies with the gears...

As for the vacuum hoses/canister, it's possible that's where the problem lies. Where does it come from and go to? Is it constantly on, or does it come on at a certain temp or rpm? What is it sucking, what is it blowing? Chances are if you didn't need it before, you don't need it now though.

Generally, if somethings obviously broke, and your having problems... Some junkyard diving and a $300 bill is better than doing a whole trans rebuild to find that you just waisted alot of time and money, and still have to fix the vacuum can.

Another possibility of course is that you messed up the rebuild, and your not getting anywhere near the power you need coming from the engine. The vacuum problem could be causing this lack of power also. You'd probably notice other engine problems though too (rough idle, coughing on rev-ups, problems turning over, etc.)

Without being able to experience the problem firsthand, it's tough to diagnose. Personally, I hate working on automatics myself. I'd take it to a transmission shop for an inspection.

Edit: Something else I thought of... is this a full time 4x4? If not, and if your in 4-wheel when it bogs down, try 2-wheel. Either way the weak link could be in the transfer case.
 

lowflier03

So no $hit there I was
pilot
The vaccum canister that you mentioned is a waste of space IMHO. Most people I know actually take theirs out in order to clean up the engine bay as well as increase performance. (Albeit the vac canister doesn't sap that much HP, but having open vac lines like that will.) Agree with the above posts on the tranny issue. Largely depends on whether its a manual or auto. Either way the money required would probably be worth it considering that you already rebuilt the engine.
 

JSF_Dreamer

Busted Head
Sounds like a transmission problem. If the engine is idling fine, and you can rev it in neutral with no problems, it's most likely a breakdown with how that power is getting to the wheels, i.e. the transmission.

Assumig it's and automatic (you said "Drive" and not "1st"), does it bog down as soon as you put it in drive, or only after you start moving? If it's the former, check your torque converter, you might get lucky and not need a full rebuild. If it's the later, BOHICA, get ready to shell out some $$$$ and time for a rebuild.

General thought process: it's only when it's in gear that you have a problem, the problem lies with the gears...

As for the vacuum hoses/canister, it's possible that's where the problem lies. Where does it come from and go to? Is it constantly on, or does it come on at a certain temp or rpm? What is it sucking, what is it blowing? Chances are if you didn't need it before, you don't need it now though.

Generally, if somethings obviously broke, and your having problems... Some junkyard diving and a $300 bill is better than doing a whole trans rebuild to find that you just waisted alot of time and money, and still have to fix the vacuum can.

Another possibility of course is that you messed up the rebuild, and your not getting anywhere near the power you need coming from the engine. The vacuum problem could be causing this lack of power also. You'd probably notice other engine problems though too (rough idle, coughing on rev-ups, problems turning over, etc.)

Without being able to experience the problem firsthand, it's tough to diagnose. Personally, I hate working on automatics myself. I'd take it to a transmission shop for an inspection.

Edit: Something else I thought of... is this a full time 4x4? If not, and if your in 4-wheel when it bogs down, try 2-wheel. Either way the weak link could be in the transfer case.


It was running great for about two weeks after the rebuild, so I'm pretty sure everything there was pretty sound. It is not a full-time 4x4. I have tried putting it in 2H and 4H and 4L, but it's all the same. I agree it seems to be a problem with the transmission (which is automatic), but with it just starting all of a sudden it seems like it would more likely be a relay or something like that. My dad drove it to the store, parked it, walked in to the story and did whatever, came out and tried to start it up and that's when the problem started. It was fine the whole way there, but from that moment on, it's been a huge pain.

I don't know. If I can't fix it I may just sell it for 500 bucks or so and put that towards an AR-15 :D
 

GO_AV8_DevilDog

Round 2...
Contributor
It was running great for about two weeks after the rebuild, so I'm pretty sure everything there was pretty sound. It is not a full-time 4x4. I have tried putting it in 2H and 4H and 4L, but it's all the same. I agree it seems to be a problem with the transmission (which is automatic), but with it just starting all of a sudden it seems like it would more likely be a relay or something like that. My dad drove it to the store, parked it, walked in to the story and did whatever, came out and tried to start it up and that's when the problem started. It was fine the whole way there, but from that moment on, it's been a huge pain.

I don't know. If I can't fix it I may just sell it for 500 bucks or so and put that towards an AR-15 :D

yick, it certainly sounds electrical..
anyone have a test light...
 

BurghGuy

Master your ego, and you own your destiny.
Lifes short. Save yourself some hassle and have some fun. Sell it and buy the AR-15. You live in Pensacola for crying out loud, you can get away with two-wheels year round. (of course car seats are hard to attach, but I'm guessing you've got a family driver...)

Of course, with this economy, I don't know who'd buy a broken '88 Pathfinder for $500, except some guy with a broken '88 Patherfinder who needs parts. But you may luck out, some Milton local may be looking for a new lawn ornament.

Other option is to find and fix the problem (if it's cheap) then sell it for $1000 and buy TWO AR-15s.
 

JSF_Dreamer

Busted Head
^^ I imagine that would cause the same idle issues if it were in park/neutral too, but it doesn't.

I can ride my bike mostly year round, but it's getting into the crappy (rain nearly all week) season. I dunno... Either way, I don't know where I could buy 2 AR-15's for 1000 bucks. Especially not new. The local shops around here are selling Rock Rivers and so for around 800 for a base model.
 

picklesuit

Dirty Hinge
pilot
Contributor
^^ I imagine that would cause the same idle issues if it were in park/neutral too, but it doesn't.

.

I had one in my 1989 F-350 and it didn't give me a problem until I hit about 25 MPH...something about back-pressure....I just knocked the guts outta the cat and put it back on.
 

GO_AV8_DevilDog

Round 2...
Contributor
Had a friend's torque converter go out and gave similar symptoms. :confused:

torque converter is a pretty simple and cheap fix (if you can do it yourself or can keep the mechanics from ripping you off).

I'm going to have to say that it doesn't sound like the cat if it infact dies as soon as you shift out of park/neutral.
torque converter sounds logical as these things can wear over time if used and abused (which an 88 pathfinder is hardly the sunday drive to church car).

I'd say if you're tech savy, look online for the part and replace it, or have a buddy do it for a case of beer.

other than that it almost sounds symptomatic of an electrical problem.

Final question I guess, did you notice ANY kind of transmission abnormalities prior to this event? Also do you notice the battery draining and or a lower than normal charge on the battery gauge?

Check transmission fluid too as per owners manual instructions (for some cars it requires the engine be running, some not). It can't hurt to get as much info as possible.

But this does sound like everything revolves around the tranny.

Best of luck, these cars were/ still are like tanks and are well liked and used hard up here. I hope you can get it running again soon!
 

Dirty

Registered abUser
pilot
None
Contributor
I had an 89 Pathfinder, freakin bulletproof but it was a manual. I would be leaning toward the torque converter as a plausible solution, the tranny seems confused and unless you were towing something they dont just shit the bed without a little heads up. You got fire, air and fuel which leaves you with logic (early computer stuff in the late 80's). Transfer case sounds okay since it wasn't relevant prior to your problem. Check your connections and even a fuse could be your problem.. Somewhere's along the 10/15 amp regime. After that, I would break out the manual, order/pull the part and you should be 5.0
 
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