+1 on the S&W. I just bought my dad a new off-duty to replace his 32 year old Model 36. It's a Model 60-14, five shot .357 Magnum, full stainless steel. It's absolutely beautiful. The craftsmanship and finish are second to none.
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Seeking advice on that first handgun or next weapon purchase? Ask AW!
- Thread starter fc2spyguy
- Start date
gaijin6423
Ask me about ninjas!
Since we're talking about S&W wheelguns, has anyone actually had a problem with the post-lock models? I've read a bunch of surly (they rival even you, A4s) curmudgeons complaining about issues with the S&W locking mechanism shearing under recoil and essentially locking the trigger. Lots of, "Well, this guy knew someone whose cousin had a roommate..." But no firsthand experience.
I had the chance to pick up one or two pre-lock S&W revolvers at the local gun show, but had to pass in favor of a Glock 17 for the wife's competition gun.
I had the chance to pick up one or two pre-lock S&W revolvers at the local gun show, but had to pass in favor of a Glock 17 for the wife's competition gun.
I have 2 guns that I switch between when I carry depending on the situation. 1 is the Taurus Millennium Pro 9mm. The other is my Rock Island Armory 1911. While it is a bit on the heavy side, it is a comfortable feeling and does not feel at all awkward to carry. The key to comfortably carrying any gun is to get a good holster that works for you.
Are you talkin' 'bout the Bangor Punta/Lear-Siegler era @ S&W ???
There were some QA problems reported (never had any personally nor knew anyone who did) as S&W was foundering @ 20-30 years ago while in search of ownership that actually gave a damn about producing a quality revolver ... but still, even in the 'worst' years (if there is such a thing -- guns aren't wine, you know) a S&W revolver made most wheelguns from Colt or Ruger look sick by comparison.
Most of my Smith's are "old" and all work flawlessly. Why do you suppose the perception exists that more of the "old" guns are 'better' than the "new" guns?? "Cause the OLD guys aren't makin' 'em anymore, that's why.
gaijin6423
Ask me about ninjas!
I think it could be best summed up by the statement, "Pre lock S&W revolvers are better than the ones that have the key hole near the cylinder release." There seem to be a few phantom incidents where the lock failed under recoil, effectively turning it into a paperweight. Lots of grumpy old men talking about it, but none seem to be able to cite specific occurrences.
I can't remember when it was that S&W introduced the lock, but I would be surprised if it was 30 years since.
I can't remember when it was that S&W introduced the lock, but I would be surprised if it was 30 years since.
Gotta agree with A4s on the 5-shot J frame Smith. (Us old guys stick together.):icon_tong
I've carried the 640 for around 10 years and will probably stay with it for the foreseeable future. My preferred carry is an ankle holster or small of the back. For those long drives the SOB can become a little uncomfortable. The 640 will handle .357 Mag but I prefer the +P hollow points. I can hold it in the black at 25 yds but I wouldn't expect to have to use it at those ranges. It's heavier than the Airweight but I prefer the weight just for the feel.
I've considered some laser equipped grips for it but at the ranges I would expect to use it I just think they'd be a distraction. If I ever have to use it I want to get rounds down range as quickly as possible and will trust my instincts honed by many thousands of rounds fired over the years. YMMV...
Another old guy J Frame Smith & Wesson fan here. I used to have a pre-lock Airweight exactly like A4's. It was my first carry pistol. (still in the family but not mine anymore)
It has one potential advantage over an auto that hasn't been mentioned. With a hammerless revolver it's possible to shoot it through your pocket if you absolutely have to. All 6 shots......
It has one potential advantage over an auto that hasn't been mentioned. With a hammerless revolver it's possible to shoot it through your pocket if you absolutely have to. All 6 shots......
gaijin6423
Ask me about ninjas!
After convincing the wife that I needed to stop by one of the local gun stores today, I walked in to them cracking open a crate of Mosin-Nagants. For sale price: $89. Knowing nothing about said rifles, other than their caliber, that they sell for (relative) peanuts, and that there are lots of angry people bitching about getting the cosmoline out of the wooden furniture, I elected to pass.
Don't get me wrong, I can generally pick up a firearm and mostly tell what kind of condition it's in, barring any kind of weird inconsistency in the metal that's only detectable via NDI methods, etc. But what are the major items to look for when considering one of these? Common pitfalls that buyers tend to fall into with them? Other pointers?
I'm not expecting any kind of uber-tactical sniper feats out of something like this, and although I hate to admit it, the thing would likely just end up being a conversation piece. But for $89 + tax, would I really complain that much?
Don't get me wrong, I can generally pick up a firearm and mostly tell what kind of condition it's in, barring any kind of weird inconsistency in the metal that's only detectable via NDI methods, etc. But what are the major items to look for when considering one of these? Common pitfalls that buyers tend to fall into with them? Other pointers?
I'm not expecting any kind of uber-tactical sniper feats out of something like this, and although I hate to admit it, the thing would likely just end up being a conversation piece. But for $89 + tax, would I really complain that much?
The Mosins selling retail nowadays are generally 1991/30's - meaning they were manufactured after 1930 and are the prototypical Soviet WW2 rifle. After WW2, the good Soviet Army had all the remaining 1891/30 rifles refurbished to arsenal standards and preserved for export for the next great patriotic war.
I've bought two over the years - the preservative comes off the wood easily - many web sites abound for care and feeding of your Mosin. The bores will be dark but the rifling is excellent. These are all great shooters - superbly accurate.
Tool marks and crude manufacturing are everywhere on this weapon but the bolt camming surfaces and lugs are precision. The classic Soviet manufacturing methods are so apparent (gold where you need it, shit everywhere else)
Ammo is crazy cheap and plentiful - 7.62x54R - This cartridge is produced all over the world, still. It is so simple to manufacture and produce that cold war era factories keep churning out rounds - their costs are so low that even pennies per round wholesale is profit.
Go get one, or two - a true piece of WW2 era history
gaijin6423
Ask me about ninjas!
I may get three, just for schnitzengiggles. The majority of the rifles at the shop had that dirty-ish look to the standard wood. But about half a dozen were slightly darker with a bit of a burl to the grain. I may go back and snag a couple of those.
Never shot one. Know guys that have, and think they are fun, worth the money.. For me, at $89.00, it is worth it. I have been thinking of getting one myself. I have a .22 cal Romanian Army training rifle that cost $35.00. I love to shoot it. Same with my CMP Garand. I seem to get more satisfaction from making the cheap things go bang.
I picked up my first handgun last night, a Sig P226 9mm and have a question. Does anyone know if the mag eject button can be moved to the other side of the grip? I'm left handed and that would make it a little less cumbersome to pop the mag out.
Sapper!
Excuse the BS...
Thanks, that thread had some interesting points. I have started getting used to using my trigger finger on the eject button, I may end up leaving it where it's at.
gaijin6423
Ask me about ninjas!
Is anyone up to speed on FALs? I have the opportunity, thanks to one of my former Marines who now works at a Gander Mountain, to pick one (or two) up for well below MSRP. Specifically, I'm looking at a couple DSA models. And what about a FAL v. an HK G3 clone?
Educate me.
Educate me.