A new M-1 thread

[Gatordev]

The forum software is annoying me, so I'm going to have to start a new thread here rather than copy some posts over...

MB has already started me in the right direction (quoted below), but I'm at the point now where I'm not sure what the "right" way is to get off a bunch of goop from my Garand. I've got a bunch of cosmoline still caked on under the forward hand guard and I'm trying to figure out the best means of getting it out of there while still preserving the wood.

I had a plan to use mineral spirits on all the metal bits but didn't end up needing it and just used some carb/brake cleaner once disassembled. However, I've read online that brake cleaner (and mineral spirits) is pretty hard on the wood and I'm trying not to have to refinish it. So...is there an "easy" way to get this stuff off? It's underneath the hand guard where it meets the barrel and you can't see it until you remove the op rod (which I have). Other than leaching out a little more cosmoline out of the forward hand guard wood, this is pretty much the last step before I lube it up, put the whole thing back together and go shoot it.

Appreciate any suggestions. Here's what MB had for me already. Most of this is already done, minus the bolt disassembly and trip to the dishwasher.

Cosmolene:

Put the parts in the dishwasher. Hot, no soap. Wipe down immediately afterwards. I'm not kidding.

After a light range session, I just do the bore. Get bore guide and use it that way, or go boresnake.

For a more thorough cleaning, pull back on trigger guard, remove trigger group.
Remove stock
Remove recoil spring and "Fork"
Remove pin and lock open mechanism.
Slide oprod back to notch, pull charging handle to rear and outboard/up
Remove bolt

Clean the bejeesus out of everything. Bolt disassembly is not impossible, but have someone with experience there.

Take a LARGE flat screwdriver and undo the cross screw at the end of barrel.
Spin off peice at end.
Slide gas cylinder off gun.

a .45 patch/jag works well for cleaning the gas cylinder.

(I posted all the above from memory, so if you see anything obviously missed, correct me)

A good way to check to make sure your OpRod and bolt are clean/not bent improperly is to assemble the bolt, oprod and gas system with no lube or just thin oil, and as the gun is angled up and down 45 degrees it should cycle.

I use a light gun grease for M1s off of Ebay to lube the lug ways, and the cam in the oprod. I also put a thin coat of grease where the oprod has been rubbing. (its on a circular part on the bottom). Just a dab of oil in the trigger mechanism.

I've never had to take a CMP gun to a smith. They check for proper headspace, and that's the biggie.

 

[The Chief]

Great information regarding the Garand, in case you might not have the link.

http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/

 

[Gatordev]

Thanks, definitely have that link and it's a great resource. Trying to figure out the "art" of getting rid of the last bit of goop, which looks like someone smeared it in there like an epoxy. Ick.

 

[Homer J]

Try this. http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/lowheatmethod/index.asp

 

[Gatordev]

Try this. http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/lowheatmethod/index.asp

Another good site, but it looks more geared to just the wood and not the metal. I actually have been using the sun/leech method, which is working.

HOWEVER...I think I figured out my problem. I didn't follow the CMP detail strip directions far enough down the rabbit hole and saw that you can remove the forward handguard after removing the gas block. I think that will solve my issues and allow me to get to the last bit of gunk.

 

[A7Dave]

The other helpful thing is to hit it with a blow dryer to melt the stuff out of the wood.

The CMP forums will answer any question you have about your Garand.

 

[HackerF15E]

If you want to refinish the wood, the dishwasher is a good place to start in my experience.

 

[Gatordev]

If you want to refinish the wood, the dishwasher is a good place to start in my experience.

Really the only "issue" with the gun now is the forward handguard's wood. It still weeps in the heat after numerous long-term wipe downs (per the various web sites listed here). It also has a crack in it, which I'm thinking really doesn't make it worth trying to refinish it.

Other than that, 23 rounds fired (one dud) and the only issue was the clip coming out with a round or two in it. I know that can happen, I just need to dig deeper into which of it's the various parts that people are arguing about on the interwebs (spring catch, bullet guide, etc) that need to be replaced.

 

[HackerF15E]

I've had mixed luck with long-term grease/cosmo removal from milsurps.

I have a CMP Correct Grade HRA Garand that is a Hellenic AF return which was absolutely soaked. Because it was an essentially unissued rifle, I wanted to avoid doing anything drastic to it. I used a heat gun and mineral spirits to clean up the metal, and various methods on the wood (pretty much every non-chemical one you can think of....heat gun, cat litter, black plastic bag, etc) over the course of an entire summer...and I was still not able to get the thing to stop weeping. It still does today when it gets hot.

I have a M1903 stock that was also a Greek return which was, too, soaked to the bone. Since the stock wasn't that valuable, I used all kinds of chemical methods on it (Easy Off, citrus stripper, Purple, etc). That would do a great job of stripping EVERYTHING off the stock and leaving bare wood....for a little while. I had that stock sitting in my shed for a few years, and last summer I hauled it out to either trash it or refinish it for use again. Sure enough...over time and temperature, more grease/cosmo had seeped up to the surface!

The only method that has worked for me long term has been the dishwasher. For whatever reason, that combination of heat, steam, and water does the trick. It doesn't always get rid of all the dirt and discoloration of the wood, but it seems to degrease like a champ. I have done about a dozen Garand and Carbine stocks that way, and only had a single stock that did respond well to the treatment (a Carbine stock I purchased on eBay that all ready had a crack...the dishwasher treatment opened that crack up.

 

[Gatordev]

That is what I worry about...the crack opening up. I guess in the end, I could just get a new foregrip anyway.

 

[Rocketman]

Handguard cracks are pretty common. A lot of times it happens when you take them off/on. I've got a little tool that's helps me and my fat fingers. I try not to remove them any more than is absolutely necessary. I haven't looked in a while but I think the handguards shouldn't be too difficult to find on line? Matching the color up isn't always easy though. If you can send me a hi def picture of yours I might even have an uncracked one here that would match.

Concur completely with Hacker's post. I'm not a Garand expert by any means but I've owned more than several CMP Garands of various grades. Some of them had really nasty stocks but the dishwasher cleaned them right up. Hair dryers are def good for small areas too.

You can also use a hot iron and wet rag to steam out dents/dings in the wood.

I have one 1950's Greek HRA collector grade and two 1950's Greek SA correct grades that are spectacular. One of them looks like the bolt has never been worked. Not a mark on it anywhere. The stocks have a small ding here and there that wouldn't steam out but otherwise they didn't need much cleaning at all.

Have fun with the Garand

 

[Gatordev]

Handguard cracks are pretty common. A lot of times it happens when you take them off/on. I've got a little tool that's helps me and my fat fingers. I try not to remove them any more than is absolutely necessary. I haven't looked in a while but I think the handguards shouldn't be too difficult to find on line? Matching the color up isn't always easy though. If you can send me a hi def picture of yours I might even have an uncracked one here that would match.

Color matching? HA! Yeah, I think the Greeks eliminated any need for color matching some time ago. Sadly there weren't any Service Grade in the shop when we visited and we hated to go all that way and leave empty handed...or at least without a bill for something. So it's a somewhat used '52 (I think) Springfield that still had a decent crown rating. It just has some worn parts, which I'll work on over time.

I may take you up on a handguard, though, if you have one. I haven't removed it from the metal portion and I don't know if it would survive with the crack it has if I did. I'll have to look a little closer.

As I mentioned earlier, I'll probably be delving into the clip ejecting prematurely, too, but I'll probably worry about that after I PCS.

 

[Rocketman]

Color matching? HA! Yeah, I think the Greeks eliminated any need for color matching some time ago. Sadly there weren't any Service Grade in the shop when we visited and we hated to go all that way and leave empty handed...or at least without a bill for something. So it's a somewhat used '52 (I think) Springfield that still had a decent crown rating. It just has some worn parts, which I'll work on over time.

I may take you up on a handguard, though, if you have one. I haven't removed it from the metal portion and I don't know if it would survive with the crack it has if I did. I'll have to look a little closer.

As I mentioned earlier, I'll probably be delving into the clip ejecting prematurely, too, but I'll probably worry about that after I PCS.

You bought it from the CMP? From one of their retail outlets? I don't remember from the other thread. If so they will gladly take it back and either fix it or get you a new one. They probably won't do that for a cracked handguard but sure will for mechanical issues.

I'll check to see what I have and let you know. You can glue what you have as well but no matter what you have to be damn careful putting it back on. Repaired crack or no. When putting it back on the tendancy is to push on the wood while you are trying to get the metal clip to expand back over the barrel and into the grooves. Some of the older handguards are pretty thin......Cracks'em almost every time.....

 

[Gatordev]

You bought it from the CMP? From one of their retail outlets? I don't remember from the other thread. If so they will gladly take it back and either fix it or get you a new one. They probably won't do that for a cracked handguard but sure will for mechanical issues.

Hmm...I'll have to give "Leon" an email and ask him. He took care of us pretty well. From what I'm reading on the internets, this seems like a pretty common thing from CMP guns. The two main culprits seems to be worn bullet guide or worn spring catch.

I'll check to see what I have and let you know. You can glue what you have as well but no matter what you have to be damn careful putting it back on. Repaired crack or no. When putting it back on the tendancy is to push on the wood while you are trying to get the metal clip to expand back over the barrel and into the grooves. Some of the older handguards are pretty thin......Cracks'em almost every time.....

This is actually the forward hand guard, not the other one that actually clips onto the barrel. This is the one that just slides off after you remove the gas block. From what I've read, it still can come off the metal guide, but I don't know how easy that is to do if it already is cracked. It's not like it's a huge crack, but it is "old." You'd figure all that cosmeline would hold it together, right? Maybe it is.

 

[Rocketman]

This is actually the forward hand guard, not the other one that actually clips onto the barrel. This is the one that just slides off after you remove the gas block. From what I've read, it still can come off the metal guide, but I don't know how easy that is to do if it already is cracked. It's not like it's a huge crack, but it is "old." You'd figure all that cosmeline would hold it together, right? Maybe it is.

I'm pretty sure I have one or two of those around here too. I know I have one that I took the "metal thing" off of. I just bent back the "tabs" on the end and slid it out...I'll check to see.