Reloading Ammo

[insanebikerboy]

To piggyback on Pugs, the whole idea of a chrono is you're trying to identify how each of your loads reacts in your rifle. Changing the grains of powder, bullet weight, even the primer can change the velocity of the round out of the barrel.

If you're loading for accuracy the whole idea is to reduce the standard deviation in the velocity of your rounds to as small a spread as possible. While there is always an optimum velocity and load for each rifle, if you're loading for accuracy the whole idea is to make each round as repeatable as possible. So, even if you don't find the exact perfect load for your rifle (which isn't too hard to do with enough experimentation) if you can repeat each load consistently you will be able to adjust your aim appropriately, with the groups being tighter with that smaller velocity spread.

That said, if you're reloading just to have cheaper rounds, if you stick to what's in the reloading manuals you'll be safe. Getting into chrono'ing rounds and weighing powder charges down to .1 grains is more for match and accuracy purposes. You'll still be fairly accurate with the manual's loads.

 

[feddoc]

To add with Pugs and insanebikerboy.....if I am developing a load I consider all the variables....bullet weight, bullet type, powder type and powder weight. I started by loading 5 rounds at each variable and at increasing powder charges (raising the load by anywhere from .1 to .5 grains at a time. I used a chronograph on each shot and manually recorded the velocity (including the standard deviation amongst the 5 shot string) and, when done, the group size. What I found is that standard deviation in velocity was very often linked to group size. It took a whole lot of shooting to get the right powder/bullet combo. Not unusual for me to fire 200+ rounds out of a rifle on a given day. As an example, I worked up some loads for prairie dogs/coyotes out of my .300 Win Mag. 130 grain HP using IMR4350, AA4350, and IMR 4064. Multiply that by 5 rounds at each stop, and that gives 135 rounds. Then I picked the two most accurate loads for each powder and worked loads up in .1 grain increments. The end result was a 130grain flat base bullet that could print quarter sized groups at 100 yards. And a lot of dead varmints. If I wanna get anal, I will turn the necks too.

 

[insanebikerboy]

....if I am developing a load I consider all the variables....bullet weight, bullet type, powder type and powder weight....

Just to add on, which primer you use makes a big difference too. CCI has a reputation of being a really hot primer, while a Remington 9 1/2 or Federal 210M is a little cooler. A primer isn't a primer isn't a primer, they really do make a difference, especially if you start shooting at ranges greater than 300-400 yards.

 

[insanebikerboy]

Oh, and I forgot about brass too. My experience is that Lapua brass is probably the best, followed in close second by Federal or Norma. The only problem with Lapua and Norma is it's damn pricey.

 

[BullGator]

I love shooting, introducing new shooters to guns and safety, and just practicing with various targets in the north-central FL woods. I shoot about 6 times a year on average (12gauge, 9mm, 7.62x39, .22LR). I like to buy and shot guns with cheap ammo. Is there really a big difference with accuracy by reloading yourself (say with a mac-90, sks, or mini-40: all cheap Russian/Chinese assault rifles that are the "best" long range guns I have, and that I am very accurate with)? I have collected 9mm rounds to send back for cheaper live-bullet prices, but that's the extent of my ability, so far.


About the .22LR refills: (As said, it's not worth the trouble.) Has any one separated a .22 bullet and carefully scraped the green primer out? That stuff reminds me of what c4 would be like (in real small doses); I don't recommend you try as I did this as a dumb-kid (only unsafe thing I've done with guns/ammo) and now realize it was dangerous, but I was just wondering if any one else handled that stuff too. -Good times-

 

[insanebikerboy]

...(12gauge, 9mm, 7.62x39, .22LR). I like to buy and shot guns with cheap ammo. Is there really a big difference with accuracy by reloading yourself (say with a mac-90, sks, or mini-40: all cheap Russian/Chinese assault rifles that are the "best" long range guns I have, and that I am very accurate with)....

All things being equal, yes, because you build the rounds specifically for your rifle. Like we've talked about before, there is a certain velocity that each rifle likes, and that velocity is different for every rifle, even rifles of the same caliber.

In addition, it depends on the amount of accuracy you are trying to achieve. Say, out of a .308 with factory ammo you could shoot 2" groups at 200 yds. A lot of people would be happy with that, but with reloads you might be able to bring that down to 1.5" or even smaller. A half an inch isn't too big of a change in spread, but if you start talking about .5 inches in a match, that can be a huge difference.

So, the question is if you're asking about accuracy is what is the accuracy you're trying to achieve, and why? Is it just because you want to have the most accurate gun you can, or are you doing it to be more competitive in a match.

The final question, or point, is all other reasons aside, reloading is just fun. That's part of the reason I like doing it!