Reloading Ammo

[Random Task]

So with the rising price of ammo I was looking into getting into reloading ammo. I wanted to reload 9mm, 45acp, .223, and 7.62x39 and .308/7.62x51. possibly even 22LR but with it being cheap i doubt it's worth it to do the 22LR. Does anyone reload their own ammo / have any good suggestions for books to read up on it. Also any good recommendations for gear. I came across Dillon and Lee. Wasn't sure which was better.

 

[nittany03]

I've been looking into it as well. I know a guy in town here who is retired as both an A-6 maintenance Master Chief and member of the Island County Sheriff's Department. He's a gun guy and I was asking him about reloads. He was of the opinion that unless you shoot competitively, a progressive press is overkill. He recommended a single-stage setup to begin, at least till I had the basics down.

IIRC, you can't reload 22LR because it's impossible to reprime the cases.

 

[insanebikerboy]

It is possible to reload 22 but it's basically an exercise in futility.

I've reloaded quite a bit. All the calibers you want to reload are pretty common so the individual components are fairly cheap. Unless you reload a ton though, or buy in large bulk, you're honestly not going to save much, maybe a few cents per round. Most guys I know that reload do it to make cartridges that are consistenly more accurate than what you can get from the factory. Ironically though, a lot of reloaders attempt to replicate Federal Gold Match rounds, probably one of the most accurate factory loads available.

Progressive presses are good for reloading pistol rounds, regardless of shooting competitively or not, but the big thing with a progressive is that the reloader wants to pump out a lot of rounds quickly. I like to shoot a lot of rounds so that's why I like progressives for pistol cartridges.

For rifle rounds, or if you're reloading a pistol for match situations, a progressive is hard to consistently get absolutely identical rounds. Instead, I'd recommend a turret press. It's slightly quicker than a single stage, plus it's a lot more controllable in terms of repeatability in loading. For accuracy, you want to be able to reload each round as consistently as possible.

My biggest thing, and it's for safety, is that if you're reloading a bottle-neck round, which includes almost all rifle rounds and a few pistol rounds, is to pay particular attention to neck and shoulder length. I could go on all day about those two measurements, but honestly it'd be much better to get a reloading manual and study the various lengths associated with the cartridge your reloading. Plus, you can't beat actually having someone show you how to do it, reloading isn't one of those things you can just wing.

Reloading is safe and cheaper, but don't be lax on doing it, otherwise you can literally blow yourself up.

 

[insanebikerboy]

Dillon makes good stuff but I personally think their stuff is a little overpriced. Lee is a good budget set up to start with. I believe you can buy the starter kit with dies already included, and you'd just have to buy the new die sets for the different rounds.

One set up I've liked is the Lyman reloader kits. It's a turret press, good quality, and it comes with pretty much everything you need to break into reloading.

 

[nittany03]

Any reviews on this? Seems to be a good starter kit and it's at Sportsman's Warehouse. Obviously it's sans dies, but anything else important missing?

 

[insanebikerboy]

Oh yeah, the rock chucker is what I learned how to load on. Great press, solid as a rock and can handle just about any cartridge.

I've not used the powder throw, so I can't comment on that. I've used most everything else in that though and it's all good stuff.

The only tool that isn't in that kit is a neck trimmer. That's what you need to deal with neck/shoulder elongation with a bottlenecked cartridge. The shoulder should be taken care of with the resizer die, but the neck usually needs to be trimmed. Lighter calibers won't stretch that much, so you can get a couple of uses out of the brass before needing to trim, but if you're shooting strong cartridges like a WSM or shooting a hot load, you may need to trim each reload. Neck/shoulder sizing is also unbelievably important to check if you're reloading to shoot in an autoloader like an M-1, since they don't close as "tight" as a bolt action.

The other tool I would add to that kit would be a good dial caliper, and if it's the old analog style, actually learn how to read it correctly.

 

[scoober78]

The Rock Chucker is pretty bulletproof......because of its design. Hard to go too wrong with it, and it is priced competitvely.

The problem with it, lies in that it is a single stage press...basically, each time you want to perform a different operation with it...priming, resizing etc...you must reconfigure your setup...it just adds lots of extra time to the process. If you are shooting alot of ammo, (often the case with reloaders) I would consider a turret or even a progressive press. That said...for precision, it is hard to beat a solid single stage like the Chucker.

One other tip...if you are serious about this...I'd strongly reccomend carbide dies...They cost more upfront but do a far better job on the cases and prevent you from having to lube your cases prior to resizing.

 

[C420sailor]

Reloading 7.62x39 isn't going to save you much at all, simply because it's so damn cheap in the first place. There's TONS of surplus out there. It's incredibly cheap. And .22LR is even more cheap. Not worth it in the slightest.

The others can be worth it IF YOU SHOOT OFTEN. If you're going out to the range once a month for an hour or so, it's going to take a while to offset your initial investment. If you shoot a lot, if you like to play around with loads that aren't commercially available, etc, then reloading can be worth it.

There's one thing that many people don't realize. Someone touched on it earlier. God forbid you royally f*ck up and load a round improperly, there is the chance of the firearm exploding. This is the famous kaBOOM (kB). A couple of issues with this, other than the fact that you've got your precious eyes a few inches away from a $1000 pipe bomb:

First, firing reloaded ammunition tends to void the warranty on the weapon. I've never experienced this first person, but I've been told that manufacturers are pretty good at telling if the weapon exploded due to ammunition induced overpressure. Like I said, I haven't heard this first hand so take it with a grain of salt.

Second, you're not insured. Sure you've got health insurance, but god forbid that thing blows up so hard that it takes part of your hand or an eye with it and you're out of a job, you're f'd. Ammunition companies are very well insured. If they sell you a bad round and it puts you in the hospital and/or out of work, you're essentially covered. It'll take some legal work, but at least you'll have a good chance at collecting. If it's your load, you're up shit creek sans the proverbial paddle.

Granted, I don't shoot that much, but I'd rather just cough up the extra couple of bucks and shoot commercial ammo. Doesn't have to be the best. As long as it isn't corrosive, it's good enough for me. I'll shoot that Wolf garbage through any weapon without a gas tube. Fine by me, I just have to take a little extra time cleaning my weapons, that's all.

 

[feddoc]

So with the rising price of ammo I was looking into getting into reloading ammo. I wanted to reload 9mm, 45acp, .223, and 7.62x39 and .308/7.62x51. possibly even 22LR but with it being cheap i doubt it's worth it to do the 22LR. Does anyone reload their own ammo / have any good suggestions for books to read up on it. Also any good recommendations for gear. I came across Dillon and Lee. Wasn't sure which was better.

This place has some good gouge. http://www.accuratereloading.com/


RCBS makes some really good stuff so does Dillon and Lee. Dunno how much money you would save loading your own. I suppose you could go here: http://www.midwayusa.com/ and figure out cost of primers, powder, bullets and brass for a given round, then compare to cost of factory stuff.

I reload because it is fun to make my own stuff and because it is more accurate than factory stuff. It can get to be addicting....resizing, deburring, weighing cases and bullets, neck reamers, case neck concentricity... all in the name of shrinking that group size.

RCBS and Speer make really good reloading books; not only plenty of loads, espcially for your calibers, but, each have a no BS...step by step teaching method to make sure you don't goof up. One thing I am anal about is making sure each round has a full charge of powder....half charges are dangerous.

 

[The Chief]

So with the rising price of ammo I was looking into getting into reloading ammo. ...

Re-loading can be safe and fun. I am not sure you will save any money, most folk that I know re-load for the accuracy. Wildcatting cartridges and squib loads are a kick in the tail, as they say. Watching a bullet leave the muzzle or target practice with a .308 in your basement can be fun. But you must know what you are doing and excercise extreme care.

Brass is the most expensive part of the operation, after you have the equipment. Re-loading military brass is a tad more difficult, as de-priming is more difficult with their crimped in primer.

Reloading can be dangerous if you do not know what you are doing. Have someone sit side saddle with you the first time you re-load. For high power rifles, especially, you must trim the case each time you re-load it. Most folks recommend a case be re-load a maximum of ten times. Make sure you are accurate in the power load, never exceed load.

Get yourself a good book on re-loading, as well as authoritative load data for the ammo you are re-loading. Be safe.

Forget about trying to re-load .22 rim fire.

 

[BlkPny]

I've always used an RCBS Rock Chucker, and been very satisfied. I was never concerned as much with volume of product; I reloaded in order to have ammunition loaded with the bullets I wanted for hunting. It was a little on the slow side, but a big advantage to reloading for me was a chance to go out to the garage and get away from my wife for awhile.

Additionally, I have always used RCBS dies. Never had a problem. Also, they have dies for just about every cartridge made. I reloaded for some pretty esoteric calibers, and had no trouble getting good dies from them.

 

[Redux]

I've done literally thousands with the Rockchucker, any misfires were my fault. It's paint drying slow but a good set up.

 

[Pugs]

I've been reloading for almost 30 years starting with Lee handloaders and it's been a lot of fun.

Certainly the Rockchucker kit is a great set-up that can be customized later as needed. I have a real mix of equipment now and since I don't shoot much high volume stuff I've use a single stage Lyman Orange crush press.

I currently load .243, .270, 7mm-08, .308, .257 Roberts in rifle and .38/.357 and .45 ACP in pistol. I'm not sure that we can say handloaded ammo is more accurate than factory anymore but I think you can safely say it will be more accurate than factory in your rifle!

I wouldn't have said it 10 years ago but will say it now that your first purchase after the reloading kit is a chronograph. They are darn cheap and you will find that the velocity not a single load in a reloading manual will match your rifle, in fact, it's real easy to stray into dangerous territory with zero pressure signs at all.

 

[Random Task]

They are darn cheap and you will find that the velocity not a single load in a reloading manual will match your rifle, in fact, it's real easy to stray into dangerous territory with zero pressure signs at all.

Do you aim, so to speak, for a certain velocity and adjust you loads based on that rather than based on what the load manual says? Also how do you decided on what velocity you want for your gun/bullet combo?

 

[Pugs]

Do you aim, so to speak, for a certain velocity and adjust you loads based on that rather than based on what the load manual says? Also how do you decided on what velocity you want for your gun/bullet combo?

Depends on what I am doing with it.

For my .308 it is an accuracy issue as different velocities (and Cartridge Overall Length (COL) and powder type as well as load) yield different accuracy and I use that rifle for hi-power metallic silhouette out to 500 meters so it ends up with the 168 grain Sierra Match King at 2200 fps. That's a reasonable drop and shoots 1/2" groups at 100 yards out of my Cooper m22.

For my hunting rifles, primarly the 7mm-08 and .257 Roberts I look at the bullet I am using. Different bullets are designed to perform in game at different velocities. So, I look at the ranges I expect to hunt at and balance the impact velocity against accuracy (minute of deer in this case ) and pick what I want.

The best bullet for the .257 is the 110 grain Nosler Accubond at 2780 fps MV and for the 7mm-08 the Barnes TSX 120 grain at 2900.

Now all that sounds complicated but it need not be so. I killed lots of critters and perforated lost of paper quite satisfactorily before I ever got this anal.