Old School Shaving

[scoober78]

So...in the electric razor thread, there were some questions kicking around about the "anti-electric" razor. I am something of a traditionalist when it comes to shaving. It started a few years ago with a tube of shaving cream and a shave brush that I got for Christmas...slowly I stopped using canned shaving cream. About four three years ago, I got fed up with buying the latest Gillette Fusion 9, 40 bladed cartridges at $400 for a 3 pack...and bought this. It came with a 10 pack of blades and I bought another 10 pack for $8 or so...A little later, shaving soap replaced cream...a little later a straight razor and strop came along...

The question originally asked was "Is it a steep learning curve, shaving with a straight razor?" Well, if you are starting from Mach 3's and canned "cream", then yes. When I went to the straight, I was coming from quite a bit of experience with a the above safety razor. There are some good lessons learned with a safety that will help you along with a straight...namely, what a good cutting edge and good angle feel like against your skin. For me, the biggest challenge was literally learning how to twist, pull, lean and angle to get the blade in the relationship I wanted to most of my face. Just take your time. Initially, I would practice with the straight on the weekends and then go back to the safety razor during the week when time was of the essence. Now, if I have a not "crack of dawn" brief, I will pull out the straight and I use it exclusively on off days/weekends.

Another aspect that people underestimate, especially with the straight, is that there are several skills you have to develop in addition to just wielding the razor to continue to get good shaves with it. You must learn to stop and hone. These take time. Don't plan on just ordering a straight razor and strop and being ready to go. You (and your face) will be sorry. Additionally, most guys just don't know how to use a shaving brush. My Dad learned that way, but hadn't used one for 20 years when I started shaving. You have to learn how to prep your face and build a lather...

All of this makes traditional shaving seem like a pain in the ass..."Why bother" you say? Well, honestly, once you learn (or relearn) what you are doing, it really doesn't take much extra time. My safety razor shave takes an extra 30-45 seconds over a Mach 3 and can shave. The straight? Maybe an extra 3-5 minutes. There is significant cost savings. See the breakdown at the bottom...The shave is SIGNIFICANTLY closer (read "nice of the ladies"...giggity...)than you can achieve with a multi-bladed razor and certainly any electric. Finally, I discovered that I really enjoy it. It's 3-5 minutes of my day where I can literally think about nothing and nobody else...I like the hot water/shave soap/aftershave feel and smell and I like the ritual. Plus, I can stare into my own eyes and just marvel at how good looking I am.

Post your questions and I will reply...there's a ton of good information on the webs and plenty of e-stores with great assortments of stuff, but there is no substitute for getting it into your hands and trying it.



Cost breakdown: Safety Razor vs. Gillette Fusion

Safety Razor:
Blades- 1/work week. 52/year@ $0.09 ea-----$4.58
Cream/soap- 1 shave soap/4 months. 3/year@~$10 ea-----$30
Razor (1st year cost only)- ~$50
Brush (1st year cost only)- ~$60
Total- $144.58 1st year
$34.58 2nd year
$34.58 3rd year

3 year total- $213.74
_______________________________________

Fusion:
Blades- 1/work week. 52/year@ 3.50 ea-----$182
Cream/soap- 1 every 1.5 months. 8/year@4 ea------$32
Total- $214 1st year
$214 2nd year
$214 3rd year

3 year total- $642.00

Not a reason to do it, exactly, but it's a nice bonus.

 

[OscarMyers]

+1 I have a Murker safety razor. It takes a little practice and prep but you can get a great shave at a fraction of the price. Amazon has a pretty decent selection of safety razors. And you cant go wrong with a badger brush and the plethora of shave soaps on the market. One of the few ways you can still get a hot lather at home.

At Scoober, I have a straight razor as well, but I had a lot of trouble getting a good edge on it. I just ended up looking like a cat attacked my face. I paid the company I ordered it from to sharpen it for me and used the strop as per you tube instruction. Any suggestions?

 

[insanebikerboy]

I use the Art of Shaving stuff. It's a little expensive up front cost but for me a can of shaving cream lasts about 7-8 months, the lotion and pre-shave oils a bit less. I also use a safety razor similar to the one you linked.

For me, the Art of Shaving stuff helped fix some razor bump/ingrown hair issues I had.

 

[TolgaK]

I use a Merkur Futur. I never had razor burn since I started using it, with the exception of the few times I had to resort to cartridge razors. You don't have to get a handle so expensive. 1950s Gillette razors are on eBay for decent prices. The blades are relatively cheap.

Art of Shaving stuff smells really nice, but it is pricey. There are others out there.

 

[OscarMyers]

I use the Art of Shaving stuff. It's a little expensive up front cost but for me a can of shaving cream lasts about 7-8 months, the lotion and pre-shave oils a bit less. I also use a safety razor similar to the one you linked.

For me, the Art of Shaving stuff helped fix some razor bump/ingrown hair issues I had.

I just use a beard softening face wash gillette puts out. Do the pre-shave oils work pretty good? I usually shower at night, so I have to use something in the morning to soften it up.

 

[Pags]

I just got a Merkur 34C not too long ago because I was tired of paying $25 for a pack of four razors. The shave is about the same and only takes a few minutes longer. I've been using the art of shaving products for several years now and really love their stuff. I recently switched to another shaving soap just for a change, but would happily go back to Art of Shaving. If the Art of Shaving line is a tad pricey or you run out and need a stop gap you can't go wrong with most of the stuff that Neutrogena makes.

 

[FlyinSpy]

I'm a fan of Taylor of Old Bond Street, old-school British stuff: http://www.tayloroldbondst.co.uk/acatalog/mens-shaving-products.html

I especially like their shaving soaps, which make me stink of class. (Or at least stink less of ass...) You don't have to shell out big bucks for their shave brushes, though - you can buy signifcantly cheaper ones elsewhere (like at Target or on Amazon) that work just as well. More than you ever wanted to know about the nomenclature and construction of shaving brushes can be found here.... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shave_brush

 

[scoober78]

Do the pre-shave oils work pretty good? I usually shower at night, so I have to use something in the morning to soften it up.

Well, I've used a couple different pre-shave oils off and on. Short answer? Yes, they definitely help, but I don't think they do much for actually softening the beard. Where I've found them really helpful is preventing scrape on areas that are prone to it. The crease under my jaw line tends to get a bit raw with the straight (or the safety razor if I'm really in a hurry) if I don't use a pre-shave oil.

As to showering in the evening and shaving in the morning, I've tried splashing water on my face a couple times over 5 minutes or so, damp washcloths and pre-shave and have essentially given up...My solution has become either take a quick shower in the morning or shave the night before. If I'm meticulous and do passes in both directions (two lathers), I can easily make it through a the following day without an issue.

 

[scoober78]

I'm a fan of Taylor of Old Bond Street, old-school British stuff: http://www.tayloroldbondst.co.uk/acatalog/mens-shaving-products.html
You don't have to shell out big bucks for their shave brushes, though - you can buy signifcantly cheaper ones elsewhere (like at Target or on Amazon) that work just as well. More than you ever wanted to know about the nomenclature and construction of shaving brushes can be found here.... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shave_brush

FlyinSpy is right on the money...I have three brushes...I have a Col Conk Boar Bristle brush which started off this whole obsession...

A Rooney Silvertip Badger Brush which is nice, but pretty spendy....

And A Jack Black Synthetic brush...

They all have different things I like about them...I really appreciate the Boar brush when I have alot of growth...post vacation etc...because it has the stiffest bristles and consequently really gets into a thick beard. I think you can pick it up for about $20 and it's available all over the place. Point being, don't feel like you have to go out and by the most expensive razor/brush/soap/etc...to try this...in fact, I wouldn't, because you are going to develop likes and dislikes and you'd hate to find out that you don't like the $100 badger brush you decided to start with....

I actually really like these soaps and there is no cheaper way to start wet shaving than one of these kits...available damn near everywhere, including the NEX...

Van der Hagen...
Stupid Cheap Van der Hagen...

 

[scoober78]

At Scoober, I have a straight razor as well, but I had a lot of trouble getting a good edge on it. I just ended up looking like a cat attacked my face. I paid the company I ordered it from to sharpen it for me and used the strop as per you tube instruction. Any suggestions?

Here's the best thing I can tell you...Straight razor shaving is four steps...face prep, razor hone, razor strop and blade technique. I'll assume that you have face prep down, although I will say that shave oil can definitely help you with a straight, especially at first.

Honing- At first, just pay to get it honed. It will probably cost you about $20 including shipping, but it is invaluable that you nail down as many of the moving pieces in this process as you can at first. Knowing that you have a good hone is one less thing to think about.

Stopping- Practice, practice, practice. My standard stropping routine is about 25-30 on a pure, untreated linen strop followed by 60-75 on the leather. Takes maybe a minute or so...now. At first, the thing you really need to focus on is a good steady pressure...and by pressure I mean no pressure. The absolute lightest touch yields the best results. Think of trying to strop the spine of the razor, not the edge. The edge should just follow the spine and barely make contact with the strop. Listen to it...a consistent but quiet sound is what you are listening for. Work hard on your flipping technique. The razor should never be out of contact with the strop, and your wrist should barely move. If it does, you are putting to much pressure on the razor and likely, rolling your edge. Finally, test. Try the freshly stropped razor on your arm or leg...You'll know when it's ready. If you have to make more than two light passes, you can do better. Start over.

Blade technique- This takes some time too...again...after you strop, practice on your arm or leg. Vary the angle of the blade and figure out where it wants to cut the smoothest. Remember it. Again, a light touch is the key. Ensure that when you go to your face you are pulling your skin taut. The idea is to make flat "planes" on your face and neck to shave one at a time. Be patient. Make Saturday morning your straight razor practice day. Take a long shower post coffee...and just have fun with it. If you get a crappy shave, who gives a shit. It's the weekend. Practice your stropping during the week and touch up your five o'clock shadow for practice during the week. It'll come.

Good luck, hope it helps.

 

[HueyCobra8151]

I currently use "shave secret" and no shaving cream at all. Might be a dumb question, but can you use shaving oils w/ a safety razor? Or is not using shaving soap/brush a major faux pas?

 

[insanebikerboy]

Stopping- Practice, practice, practice. My standard stropping routine is about 25-30 on a pure, untreated linen strop followed by 60-75 on the leather. Takes maybe a minute or so...now. At first, the thing you really need to focus on is a good steady pressure...and by pressure I mean no pressure. The absolute lightest touch yields the best results. Think of trying to strop the spine of the razor, not the edge. The edge should just follow the spine and barely make contact with the strop. Listen to it...a consistent but quiet sound is what you are listening for. Work hard on your flipping technique. The razor should never be out of contact with the strop, and your wrist should barely move. If it does, you are putting to much pressure on the razor and likely, rolling your edge. Finally, test. Try the freshly stropped razor on your arm or leg...You'll know when it's ready. If you have to make more than two light passes, you can do better. Start over.

Interestingly, you can sharpen your pocket knife on your boot, pretty much the same thing as stropping. I do it at work sometimes and it has definitely surprised some people when they walk in the office!

 

[scoober78]

I currently use "shave secret" and no shaving cream at all. Might be a dumb question, but can you use shaving oils w/ a safety razor? Or is not using shaving soap/brush a major faux pas?

Nah, you can do whatever you like/works for you. You may find your skin reacts differently to a safety razor and you may need a little more cushion for real steel so to speak...but maybe not. Only one way to find out.

I do the traditional soap and brush lather/wet shave because my skin tends to be a bit sensitive and I like it.

 

[OscarMyers]

Here's the best thing I can tell you...Straight razor shaving is four steps...face prep, razor hone, razor strop and blade technique. I'll assume that you have face prep down, although I will say that shave oil can definitely help you with a straight, especially at first.

Honing- At first, just pay to get it honed. It will probably cost you about $20 including shipping, but it is invaluable that you nail down as many of the moving pieces in this process as you can at first. Knowing that you have a good hone is one less thing to think about.

Stopping- Practice, practice, practice. My standard stropping routine is about 25-30 on a pure, untreated linen strop followed by 60-75 on the leather. Takes maybe a minute or so...now. At first, the thing you really need to focus on is a good steady pressure...and by pressure I mean no pressure. The absolute lightest touch yields the best results. Think of trying to strop the spine of the razor, not the edge. The edge should just follow the spine and barely make contact with the strop. Listen to it...a consistent but quiet sound is what you are listening for. Work hard on your flipping technique. The razor should never be out of contact with the strop, and your wrist should barely move. If it does, you are putting to much pressure on the razor and likely, rolling your edge. Finally, test. Try the freshly stropped razor on your arm or leg...You'll know when it's ready. If you have to make more than two light passes, you can do better. Start over.

Blade technique- This takes some time too...again...after you strop, practice on your arm or leg. Vary the angle of the blade and figure out where it wants to cut the smoothest. Remember it. Again, a light touch is the key. Ensure that when you go to your face you are pulling your skin taut. The idea is to make flat "planes" on your face and neck to shave one at a time. Be patient. Make Saturday morning your straight razor practice day. Take a long shower post coffee...and just have fun with it. If you get a crappy shave, who gives a shit. It's the weekend. Practice your stropping during the week and touch up your five o'clock shadow for practice during the week. It'll come.

Good luck, hope it helps.

I think that was my problem. I was stropping with way to much pressure, judging from your description of the proper way to do it. I'll get it re-honed and give it another shot. Thanks for the info.

 

[scoober78]

I think that was my problem. I was stropping with way to much pressure, judging from your description of the proper way to do it. I'll get it re-honed and give it another shot. Thanks for the info.

No reason to wait...Even if you've rolled the edge, you can still strop it and improve it. You may not get it truly shave ready, but you'll know from testing on your arm etc...if it's improving. If the edge is getting better, your stopping technique is improving. Try a few more passes (30-40) on the linen side and you might be surprised with the results.