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Ammunition reloading advice, tips and tricks

JIMC5499

ex-Mech
Local sportsmens club I belong to has a reloading area for members use with several progressive reloaders,a brass tumbler and powder and primer storage area. We buy the powder and primers in bulk from a local shop so it isn't that expensive. The one rule is that you put your bad brass in a bin. The scrap value helps pay for maintenance on the building and reloaders.
 

phrogpilot73

Well-Known Member
For those that have more experience than me (because I'm still just thinking/evaluating), what would be a good press to get if I don't plan on being a heavy duty reloader? Looking at probably 2-3K rounds a year, spread out among .40, 9mm, .45, .223 and .30-06. Not trying to break the bank, and don't know what's a good budget model of reloader. Trying to balance affordability/efficiency... Second question, if I buy say an entry-level Dillon, can I put another company's dies in there?
 

MasterBates

Well-Known Member
Dillons aside from the Square Deal take normal dies. I'm picking up a 650 from Flugelman tonight actually.

Sent from a van down by the river via Tapatalk
 

Hozer

Jobu needs a refill!
None
Contributor
Anybody have trouble getting powder? A freakin' pound of Varget is going for $100 on gunbroker. Once again, ludicrous speed.
 

MasterBates

Well-Known Member
It's pretty bare in Huston. I'll be home in Wyoming Friday, not sure if better there.

Sent from a van down by the river via Tapatalk
 

MasterBates

Well-Known Member
Those work alright. Case and bullet feeders can be touchy.

I have one in 45 ACP

Sent from a van down by the river via Tapatalk
 

feddoc

Really old guy
Contributor
So I found what appears to be a good deal. Only to find that I can't find bullets, powder, etc...


Beats my idea of getting a Dillon 1050. I already have a Square Deal and a 650; was thinking of getting something to work all that .223 brass I have. This looks good.
 

Gatordev

Well-Known Member
pilot
Site Admin
Contributor
Between time, initial monetary outlay, and basic room available, I don't see myself getting into reload anytime soon, however I have a bunch of Lake City .308 brass bagged up. A place that I've bought most of the rounds from says they'll reload the LC brass if it's shipped to them de-primed because they don't want to spend the extra time messing with the crimped primers. They sell their ammunition now with their own marked brass, so they are happy to reload that, but I don't have any of it. Plus some of my .308 brass is from other, more "free" sources.

After doing some Googling, it seems like there's a couple of ways to do this and I'm looking for some help. First priority is something simple and easy. I'm happy to pay a little more for something makes the process quick, but I'm not looking to buy a whole bunch of other stuff. For now, I just need to de-prime. Any suggestions?
 

CAMike

Well-Known Member
None
Contributor
...., I just need to de-prime. Any suggestions?

This is what I suggest. Go buy a Dillon 550 setup, for about $400. Also purchase an additional tool head and a universal de-priming die for that tool head. The Dillon starter set up will come with one caliber conversion kit so if you eventually get into reloading, you can begin learning on that one caliber. You will be asked to choose the caliber it when you order the press. +-$450 sounds like a sizable investment for simple de-priming but if you never eventualy get into reloading, you can sell it for damn close to the same amount. Trust me, Once you start de-priming you'll get bitten by the reloading bug. It's technical, it demands mental focus and it's a skill you can share with others.
 

Random

New Member
For those that have more experience than me (because I'm still just thinking/evaluating), what would be a good press to get if I don't plan on being a heavy duty reloader? Looking at probably 2-3K rounds a year, spread out among .40, 9mm, .45, .223 and .30-06. Not trying to break the bank, and don't know what's a good budget model of reloader. Trying to balance affordability/efficiency... Second question, if I buy say an entry-level Dillon, can I put another company's dies in there?

I shoot 2-3k a month in a good month, and use a turret press (Lee). One of the things I like about it is I watch every last stinking step, especially the powder throw. Squib loads can end your day quickly, and I tend to shoot fast (USPSA/IDPA/Steel Challenge/etc). So far I've never double-tapped a potential squib, but there's always that one time you're not completely on your game. Incidentally, I've never actually had a squib. I have had two light loads that made me stop to make sure, though.

The case prep is all done ahead of time. I shoot a lot of 40 S&W, so clean, lube, push through resize, full length resize/decap, then I use a hand primer. I keep the primed cases for the day when it's time to drop powder, put a bullet on the end, and crimp. Generally I get 400-500 an hour at that point, then back in the tumbler to polish everything, mark the heads with the color for that batch, and ready for the next match.

Dillon is good stuff; you almost can't lose money on one because they sell used for about the same price as new. I have a harder time tracking everything going on, and I'm totally anal about loading bullets, but I know a LOT of people who adore blue, and if I ever get a progressive that's it. They will take whatever die you want, assuming they're standard thread.

The best advice I can give you is to be anal. Pistol powder in a rifle case will get you the kind of fame you hope to avoid. The same goes for a lot of other things that can go wrong on a bench, so create processes to minimize the risk of error and stick with them. Avoid distractions, and pay attention.
 

Random

New Member
Beats my idea of getting a Dillon 1050. I already have a Square Deal and a 650; was thinking of getting something to work all that .223 brass I have. This looks good.

223 brass is problematic in some ways. If you don't know the source there's a good chance it's crimped, which adds steps. For any 223, even the stuff I eject on the ground, the steps are clean, lube, resize/decap, trim, swage, prime. That swage step makes sure the primer pocket has any and all crimp removed.

Oh, don't load rifle with a 1050; stick to a 650 or 550 for rifle.

Off topic, but of potential interest, I've seen some 'brass' 9mm that's really brass plated steel. If you reload 9 you might want a BFM (that's a big magnet; the kind that can suck iron out of your blood) to make sure you didn't pick up steel without realizing it.
 

Random

New Member
Between time, initial monetary outlay, and basic room available, I don't see myself getting into reload anytime soon, however I have a bunch of Lake City .308 brass bagged up. A place that I've bought most of the rounds from says they'll reload the LC brass if it's shipped to them de-primed because they don't want to spend the extra time messing with the crimped primers. They sell their ammunition now with their own marked brass, so they are happy to reload that, but I don't have any of it. Plus some of my .308 brass is from other, more "free" sources.

After doing some Googling, it seems like there's a couple of ways to do this and I'm looking for some help. First priority is something simple and easy. I'm happy to pay a little more for something makes the process quick, but I'm not looking to buy a whole bunch of other stuff. For now, I just need to de-prime. Any suggestions?

You're also going to need to de-crimp or their primer is going to be whinier than an Ensign at Nuke School. LC is always crimped until someone swages it. Your "more free" sources also need some checking; any of those berdan primed? You can tell looking into the case; one big hole in the center is good. Two little holes is berdan, that's bad. Yes, I've been to the PI, back when there was a PI, so I'll leave the rest of that comment to the imagination.
 
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